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Lease vs Buy Car Calculator

Compare the true cost of leasing vs buying a car. See which option is cheaper over 3, 5, or 7 years, and find the best fit for your driving habits and financial goals.

$
MSRP or negotiated price
Divide dealer APR by 2,400 to get MF
%
% of MSRP at lease end. Higher = lower payment.
$
%
$
%
Applied to purchase price when buying

Try another scenario

How to Use This Calculator

Compare Total Cost tab

The default tab. Enter the vehicle price, lease money factor, residual value %, and down payments for both options. The calculator computes total lease cost (payments + fees) vs total buy cost (payments minus equity) over the same period. The winner is the option with the lowest net cost.

5-Year Analysis tab

Goes beyond one lease term. Models lease-and-return-then-lease-again vs buy-and-keep over 5 and 7 years. Factors in maintenance differences (leased cars stay under warranty; owned cars face out-of-warranty costs after year 3), insurance premium differences, and the breakeven point where buying becomes cheaper.

Lifestyle Fit tab

A decision matrix based on how you actually use a car. Answer 6 questions about annual mileage, modification desire, equity preference, credit score, how long you keep cars, and driving style. The calculator scores leasing and buying from 0-10 and recommends the better fit.

Share your result

Every input is encoded in the URL. Click Share to send your exact scenario to a spouse, financial advisor, or car dealer.

The Formula

Lease and buy costs are calculated using standard auto finance formulas:

Lease Payment
Monthly Payment = Depreciation + Finance Charge
Depreciation = (Cap Cost − Residual Value) ÷ Term
Finance Charge = (Cap Cost + Residual Value) × Money Factor

Buy Payment (Standard Amortization)
PMT = P × [r(1+r)n] ÷ [(1+r)n − 1]
where P = principal, r = monthly rate, n = months

Total Cost Comparison
Lease Total = Payments + Down + Acquisition Fee + Disposition Fee
Buy Net Cost = Payments + Down − (Car Value − Remaining Loan Balance)
Winner = lower total cost over the same time period

The money factor is the lease equivalent of an interest rate. Multiply by 2,400 to get the approximate APR. For example, a 0.0025 money factor equals about 6.0% APR.

The residual value is the predicted worth of the car at lease end, expressed as a percentage of MSRP. A higher residual means lower depreciation and a lower monthly payment.

Example

Mike & Jen — Denver, CO

Looking at a $42,000 SUV. Comparing a 36-month lease at 0.0023 money factor, 52% residual, $2,500 down vs a 60-month purchase at 5.9% APR, $5,000 down. They drive 12,000 miles per year.

Compare Total Cost tab (36-month period)

Lease monthly payment$432
Lease 3-year total cost$18,642
Buy monthly payment$763
Buy 3-year payments$32,468
Buy equity at 36 months$11,206
Buy 3-year net cost$21,262

Over 3 years, leasing costs $2,620 less than buying. But buying builds $11,206 in equity.

5-Year Analysis tab

Lease 5-year total (2 leases)$31,850
Buy 5-year net cost$25,580
Breakeven point~3 years 8 months

After 5 years, buying saves $6,270. The longer they keep the car, the more buying wins — especially after the loan is paid off at month 60.

FAQ

The money factor is the lease interest rate in a different format. Multiply the money factor by 2,400 to get the approximate APR. For example, 0.0025 × 2,400 = 6.0% APR. Dealers sometimes quote money factors to make rates seem lower. Always convert to APR for a fair comparison. A money factor below 0.0020 is considered good; above 0.0030 is high.
Not necessarily. With leasing, you pay for the depreciation you use, plus a finance charge. You get a new car every 2-3 years with full warranty coverage and no resale hassle. The trade-off is zero equity. It's comparable to renting an apartment vs buying a house — different strategies for different situations. Leasing often makes sense for people who want a new car every few years, drive fewer than 12,000 miles annually, and value predictable monthly costs.
Leasing is typically better when: (1) you want a new car every 2-3 years, (2) you drive under 12,000 miles per year, (3) you don't modify vehicles, (4) you want lower monthly payments, (5) the vehicle has a high residual value (holds its value well), or (6) you use the car for business and can deduct lease payments. Buying is better for long-term ownership, high-mileage drivers, and anyone who wants to build equity.
Standard leases allow 10,000-12,000 miles per year. Going over costs $0.15-$0.25 per excess mile, depending on the brand. On a 36-month lease, exceeding by 3,000 miles per year costs $2,700-$4,500 at turn-in. You can negotiate higher mileage limits upfront (typically $1,000-$2,000 more per 3,000 additional miles per year), which is almost always cheaper than paying the excess mileage penalty at lease end.
Yes. At lease end you can buy the car for the residual value stated in your lease contract plus a purchase option fee. This makes sense if the car's market value exceeds the residual (you're getting a deal) or if you've exceeded mileage limits (avoids the penalty). It doesn't make sense if the market value is below the residual — you'd be overpaying for a used car you could buy cheaper elsewhere.

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